Viewers of the historical drama "The Empress of China" may have noticed that the heroine Fan Bingbing had two delicate red dots painted at the corners of her mouth during her coronation as empress. This was not a modern invention but a representative Tang dynasty cosmetic technique called "mianyan" (面厴). This makeup not only enhanced the allure of a woman's face but also served as a secret signal between concubines and the emperor regarding nightly service. This article explores how this private mark evolved into a Tang dynasty aesthetic trend and the various menstrual avoidance strategies used in imperial harems throughout history.
The two red dots were not just for beauty. They reveal the physiological secret of Tang dynasty "mianyan."
In ancient feudal society, imperial concubines all hoped to receive the emperor's favor and bear a son to secure their status. However, women face menstruation every month. In ancient court beliefs, if the emperor saw blood during intimate service, it was considered a great omen of misfortune, potentially affecting the nation's fortune and leading to severe punishment or even death.
Since menstruation was a private and embarrassing topic, concubines developed a subtle communication method. When menstruating and unable to serve the emperor, a concubine would paint two red dots at the corners of her mouth with rouge. This was called "mianyan." The female official in charge of recording the emperor's sexual activities would see this mark and remove the concubine from that night's service roster, avoiding verbal awkwardness and the risk of violating court rules.
From "dimple imitation" to "fashion trend": The aesthetic evolution of Tang mianyan
"Yan" originally meant dimple. Ancient people believed that dimples on a woman's cheeks made her smile more lively and charming, so the earliest mianyan was a cosmetic decoration imitating dimples. Tang dynasty women's makeup routines were elaborate: applying lead powder, rouge, drawing eyebrows, sticking floral decals (huadian), then "dotting mianyan," and finally applying oblique red (xiehong) and lip color.
Over time, mianyan styles evolved from a practical signal into a popular fashion among commoners.
- Early Tang to before High Tang: Simple round dots, like two small soybeans at the corners of the mouth. - After High Tang: Styles and scope expanded greatly, with coin-shaped "qian dian" and apricot-shaped "xing yan." - Late Tang refinement: Complex and exquisite "hua yan" emerged, surrounded by floral patterns, showcasing Tang women's bold confidence in beauty.
Not just Tang dynasty: Han dynasty gold rings, Five Dynasties lanterns—creative menstrual avoidance across eras
The need for concubines to avoid serving the emperor during menstruation existed in all dynasties. Besides Tang mianyan, other dynasties developed interesting codes and customs.
- Han dynasty (gold ring): Han concubines wore a gold ring on their finger during menstruation. The word "huan" (ring) sounds like "huan" (return), and "jin jie" (gold ring) implied "jing jie zhi" (menstrual warning). The emperor would see the ring and understand she was unwell. - Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms (red lantern and red string): In some regimes, concubines hung a large red lantern outside their bedroom, or tied a red string bracelet around their wrist as a visual signal to prohibit intimacy.
How to pronounce "mianyan" and what does it mean?
"Mianyan" is pronounced "miàn yǎn." "Yan" originally referred to a dimple on the cheek. In ancient cosmetics, it specifically meant a facial decoration made by dotting rouge at the corners of the mouth to imitate dimples or serve as a signal for nightly service.
Could common women also paint mianyan?
Yes. Although mianyan originated as a private menstrual avoidance mark in the palace, because it enhanced feminine charm, it quickly spread to the common people and became a daily cosmetic trend among women of all classes in the Tang dynasty.
What happened if a concubine concealed her menstruation and insisted on serving the emperor?
In ancient court concepts, the emperor's health was paramount. If the emperor saw blood during service, it was considered disrespectful and a violation of court taboos. Severe consequences could include demotion, being sent to the cold palace, or even execution. Therefore, concubines never dared to take such a risk.
FACT BOX
- Source: PR Times
- Category: News