Six Members of Chuo University Alpine Club Successfully Summit Denali, North America's Highest Peak

Six Members of Chuo University Alpine Club Successfully Summit Denali, North America's Highest Peak

The Chuo University Alpine Club Denali Expedition conducted an expedition to Denali (6,190m, formerly known as Mount McKinley), the highest peak in North America, and six out of ten expedition members successfully reached the summit on June 6, 2026.

The six members who reached the summit are Taiyo Ashizawa, Taiki Hirayama, Eiji Mitsuhashi, Keigo Tajima, Fumiya Kataoka, and Akira Hashimoto. Among them, two are students of the Chuo University Alpine Club.

The expedition was led by Takayuki Inokuma, a meteorologist and Representative Director of Yamaten Co., Ltd. The expedition was initially forced to halt for several days in Talkeetna, Alaska, due to poor weather. However, after arriving at the landing point, which serves as the trailhead, on May 22, the team proceeded smoothly. Following altitude acclimation and load carrying, they reached the Medical Camp at an altitude of 4,350m on May 29. Subsequently, on June 6, all ten members launched a summit bid from the High Camp at an altitude of 5,250m. Amid the harsh high-altitude environment, six members successfully reached the summit of Denali. Four members, including Leader Inokuma, reached around 5,800 to 6,000m, but decided to descend midway, prioritizing safety.

Leader Inokuma is a weather forecaster who heads Yamaten Co., Ltd., Japan's only weather forecasting company specializing in mountain weather. He has established a unique style of aiming for summits of the world's high peaks, including Mount Everest and Manaslu, while conducting his own weather forecasting. In this expedition as well, he challenged the Denali climb while carrying out the dual roles of weather forecasting operations and expedition leader.

Of particular note is the meteorological decision made on the summit day, June 6. On that day, major European and American weather companies and the Denali National Park Ranger Station had forecast bad weather, causing many climbing teams to hold back. However, Leader Inokuma determined that summiting was possible based on his own meteorological analysis.

As a result, the Chuo University team was the only climbing expedition to head for the summit on that day. They gained the precious experience of summiting the summit route of Denali—which is usually crowded with many climbers—in a private, exclusive state.

This expedition demonstrated the tradition and challenging spirit of the Chuo University Alpine Club, while also presenting an achievement that showcases new possibilities for safe mountaineering utilizing specialized expertise in mountain meteorology.