Established a Formulation for a Massage Cosmetic That Achieves Both Residual Oiliness and Lack of Slippery Feeling After Rinsing

Narice Cosmetics Co., Ltd. (CEO: Hiroyoshi Muraoka, Headquarters: Osaka City, Fukushima Ward) has established a formulation for a facial massage cosmetic that offers two distinct user experiences: "smooth finger movement during massage and a thick, adhering feeling that follows the skin," and "a moderate residual oiliness and absence of a slippery feeling after rinsing." We summarize the details below.

[Our Previous Research and Current Status of Massage Cosmetics]

Massage creams and masks are recognized as higher value-added products compared to general skincare items like lotions, which are used daily, morning and night. In 1974, when we introduced European aesthetic services to Japan, we developed specialized cosmetics tailored to Japanese skin. At that time, massage creams and masks were separate formulations. However, in 1980, against the backdrop of increasing female employment rates, we developed the first home-use massage cream with mask functions. We have focused our research on "massaging packs," unique items that combine the functions of both a pack and a massage, allowing users to achieve the same satisfaction as salon treatments at home.

Cream-based massage products are preferred to have a smooth spread and a thick, enveloping feel during application, with a preference for them to undergo phase transition during massage. However, when rinsing or wiping off, a lack of slipperiness is desired, followed by a residual oiliness that leaves the skin feeling supple. Previously, to achieve a residual oiliness, liquid oils were incorporated in large amounts into emulsion formulations. However, this led to the issue of a noticeable slippery feeling during rinsing. The formulation research for this product was conducted with the aim of providing the rich satisfaction experienced in salons, without requiring special techniques, so that ordinary people can easily enjoy a comfortable massage.

"Narice Skincare Salon" at its opening in 1974

[Our First Massaging Pack with an Alpha-Gel Structure]

Conventional O/W type massaging packs had limitations on the amount of liquid oil that could be incorporated due to emulsion stability. However, this traditional formulation resulted in a refreshing, watery feel, failing to provide the rich texture and residual oil film sensation required for massage. On the other hand, attempting to achieve a rich feel and residual oil film by incorporating a large amount of liquid oil and increasing surfactants for stabilization resulted in overly strong interfaces, preventing phase transition during massage. Consequently, the oil would not adhere to the skin and would simply wash away, creating a dilemma where an appropriate residual oiliness could not be achieved after cleansing.

We have succeeded in stabilizing the emulsion state of the cream by utilizing an alpha-gel structure, also known as a lamellar structure, where the water layer, surfactants, and higher alcohols form a millefeuille-like arrangement, similar to the structure of the skin. This resulted in a texture with high affinity for the skin, offering a refreshing yet moderately rich consistency. During massage, the fingers gradually break down this lamellar structure, creating a sensation of bursting oil and water capsules. This formulation for a massaging pack with an alpha-gel structure is the first of its kind in our 46 years of development. Furthermore, the research product established through this research underwent a user experience evaluation test by 10 expert panelists, receiving high marks for its rich and smooth texture during use, the absence of a slippery feeling during rinsing, and the residual oiliness after rinsing.