[Column by Hsieh Hsing-Yin] Day Three of the Pilgrimage: Conquering the Peak of Forgiveness! Exploring Pamplona, Hemingway’s Beloved Ancient City

On May 6, the third day of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage, we finished breakfast at the hotel, did warm-up exercises at the sports field across the street, and began walking toward today’s goal—the Alto del Perdón (Peak of Forgiveness). The peak stands at an elevation of approximately 735 meters. Some sections of the trail were muddy from streams, others covered in small pebbles, but most of the path was manageable. Although the planned distance was 14 kilometers, we actually walked only 11.79 kilometers to reach it.

Along the way, we met pilgrims from different countries and gave them small gifts from Taiwan—Wangzhi noodles, black bear pins, tea bags, and more. We encountered three sisters from Ottawa, Canada; two sisters from Germany; an 18-year-old high school graduate from Xi’an, China; and a father from California whose son had studied at a university in Taiwan. While queuing at a public restroom, we met a group of university students from California and Oregon, as well as young women from the Netherlands. They were curious about why we had traveled all the way from Taiwan to walk the Camino. We replied that we were celebrating our 40th high school reunion. They were amazed, exclaiming 'Wow!' and 'Cool!'—after all, they were only in their twenties.

The scenery along the route to Alto del Perdón consisted mostly of wheat fields. Amidst the endless greenery, bright red poppies stood out vividly—a striking splash of color against the landscape. Across the vast fields grew many plants we didn’t recognize. Our companion Yu-Chao patiently used various apps to identify each species, demonstrating a true spirit of lifelong learning.

Alto del Perdón is a must-pass point for pilgrims, steeped in religious and historical significance. According to legend, when pilgrims reached this spot exhausted and desperately thirsty, their unwavering faith allowed them to resist the devil’s temptations. Moved by their devotion, Saint James appeared, drove away the demons, and provided holy water so they could quench their thirst and continue their journey. Thus, the mountain became a symbol of forgiveness and redemption.

Upon reaching Alto del Perdón, beyond spiritual cleansing and inner reconciliation, visitors are deeply impressed by the striking silhouette sculpture atop the summit. This steel artwork features figures of a hiker, a horse rider, and a dog-walker. Beneath it reads the poetic phrase: 'Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas'—'Where the road of the wind meets the road of the stars.'

Due to its geographical location, Alto del Perdón experiences strong winds year-round. This explains the presence of large wind turbines dotting the landscape, making it literally 'the road of the wind.' As for 'the road of the stars,' there is a thousand-year-old legend that early pilgrims believed following the light of the stars at night would lead them directly to the Cathedral of Santiago, the pilgrimage’s final destination.

Each day on the Camino, we carry the mission of collecting stamps—at least two per day, stamped into two separate pilgrim passports. One was purchased from SJPP, the other issued in November last year during Japan’s Kumano Kodo trail. On the way to Alto del Perdón, there was one church and two cafés where stamps could be obtained. One café was too busy—the owner had no time to stamp our passports. The other, though crowded, allowed us to stamp ourselves. My sister and I bought keychains and water bottles, both adorned with the scallop shell motif of the Camino, as souvenirs.

Compared to the two shops, the adjacent church felt nearly deserted. We entered quietly. Inside, it was very dark. An elderly woman helping with the stamps looked kind and gentle, carefully stamping each pilgrim’s passport in the dimness—a truly dedicated act. We made a small donation to the church, perhaps enough to buy more candles or install brighter lights.

Besides fellow pilgrims and yellow scallop shells, today’s route to Alto del Perdón offered another landmark: a distant row of wind turbines. Following the impressive line of white structures led us straight to the summit. Upon arrival, the traditional group photo was a must. Overcome with excitement, we shouted and laughed uncontrollably, breaking the serene silence of Alto del Perdón.

A tour bus waited at the peak to take us down directly to the old town of Pamplona. Pamplona is one of the Spanish cities most beloved by American writer Ernest Hemingway. A passionate writer and traveler, Hemingway won the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1954 for The Old Man and the Sea. Starting in 1923, he visited Pamplona multiple times to participate in the Festival of San Fermín—commonly known as the Running of the Bulls—and used the city as the backdrop for his classic novel The Sun Also Rises. The book frequently mentions Pamplona’s bars, cafés, and cuisine. His favorite and most frequented café was Café Iruña, located in the Castle Square of the old town. Today, the café still preserves a 'Hemingway Corner,' allowing tourists, visitors, and pilgrims to connect with the spirit of the legendary author. We also enjoyed lunch and dinner at restaurants favored by Hemingway, thoroughly savoring the experience.

In Pamplona’s old town, while tracing Hemingway’s footsteps, we noticed Palestinian flags hanging from the balconies of several buildings (Photo by Hsieh Hsing-Yin). Whether this reflects sympathy or solidarity with Palestine’s pursuit of independence, whether due to historical empathy or political expression, people’s daily lives remain grounded in food, clothing, housing, and transportation. In the same photograph, we also saw potted plants and clotheslines on the balconies. Despite the global attention drawn every July 6 by the wild festivities of the Running of the Bulls and the constant flow of pilgrims, the everyday life of Pamplona’s residents continues just as it is.

Pamplona also boasts a beautiful city hall, the Parliament of Navarre, the Gayarre Theatre (Teatro Gayarre), the bullring, statues of running bulls, and the adorable 'Little Bull Shop,' filled with charming souvenirs impossible to resist.

On the third day of the Camino, we climbed the Peak of Forgiveness in the morning and leisurely explored Pamplona in the afternoon—wandering the ancient streets, visiting supermarkets, and resting to prepare for tomorrow’s journey.